Naples, Italy is not a typical touristic destination. On a good day, Naples is best known as the homeland of many Italian-American immigrants and the birthplace of Neapolitan pizza. Try Solania's for the best pizza in the world!! This all according to my friends of course, since I cannot chow down on the gluten-filled delicacy [insert sad face here]. Naples is best known for it's crime, garbage lined streets, and as the city most heavily bombed in all of Italy during WWII. Typical of Southern Italy, Naples is a free-spirited, colorful, energetic, cultural mishmash.
As one of the most important cities for Renaissance and Baroque art, Naples was an obvious destination for my Baroque Art History at Temple University taught by Ana Tuck-Scala. As we pulled up to our first stop at Palazzo Capodimonte, Professor Tuck-Scala announced that we should be extra cautious about our belongings today because there would be many school children around. It was a Friday and all the Neapolitan public school children, frustrated with lack of government funded, decided to go on strike. A transplanted native, my professor explained to us that this sort of thing is very common in Naples. Hmmphh wonder who got the idea first, the Neapolitans or the French?
I won't bore you with all the details about the museums, so here are the highlights:
- Caravaggio's Seven Acts of Mercy in Pio Monte della Misericordia which is a personal Caravaggio favorite
- Caravaggio's Flagellation of Christ in Palazzo Capodimonte
- Caravaggio's last known work, The Martyrdom of Saint Ursula in Galleria di Palazzo Zevallos Stigliano
- Guiseppe Sanmartino's stunning sculpture Veiled Christ in Chiesa San Domenico Maggiore
- Certosa di San Martino- an old Carthusian monastery that houses some of the most beautiful Baroque paintings I have ever seen. In the church there is also a painting that some believe to be one of Caravaggio's missing works. Not a popular tourist destination, but one of the best stops on the trip. Situated on top of a hill, overlooking Naples, it offers a fantastic view of the city (see below).
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View from San Martino |
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Gesù Nuovo |
Although it is not famous for being one of Italy's must visit city's, Naples is definitely worth a stop if you are on your way to the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii, or Sicily. Downtown Naples has decent shopping, cheap prices, and even more knock-off designer goods. Check out the Galleria, its an exact replica of the Galleria in Milan.
xx, E