Rome Series: Famous for No Reason

The following is a list of the overrated sites in Rome. These tourist traps, as I will call them, are only famous because of their massive size, location, or presence in American popculture. They have absolutely no historical significance in the grand scheme of things, especially in such a culturally relevant epi-center of the great humanities. Just incase you ever find yourself wandering around the eternal city, wondering why one of these seemingly-important sights is famous, here's all you need to know.

1. The Trevi Fountain

The Trevi Fountain is the most famous fountains in all of Rome. It's recurrent role in various Hollywood movies over the years has undoubtably contributed to its popularity. The Trevi Fountain has appeared in Fellini's La Dolce Vita, Roman Holiday, The Lizzie McGuire Movie, and When in Rome (2010). 


According to Wikipedia, the Trevi Fountain is the "largest Baroque fountain in all of Rome". As a Baroque scholar, I can tell you that this is not entirely true. Originally, Pope Urban VIII hired Bernini, the most famous Baroque sculptor in the world, to build a new fountain on the other side of the piazza so that the Pope could see it out of his window in the Quirinal Palace. Bernini and Pietro da Cortona were responsible for the design of the original Trevi Fountain, but was later torn down and replaced with a different design. Bernini's only lasting impression was the new location in the piazza, while Cortona heavily influenced the layout and design of the fountain. In 1732, Alessandro Galilei won a competition to redesign the fountain. Galilei used Bernini's location, Cortona's Late Baroque classical layout, and incorporated his own Rocco stylistic elements into the iconography. The various depictions of Triton taming the waters and the naturalistic rock formations are Rocco elements, while the overall Classical design comes from the Late Baroque. A triumphal arch in the middle (compare to the Arch of Constantine near the Forum and the Colosseum). The repetition of the tritons and horses adds symmetrical balance to the composition. 


The Trevi fountain make absolutely no advancements in art, it is simply a large, obnoxious fountain that makes an average 3,000 euros a day off of the coins tourist throw in. I am not telling you to skip the Trevi Fountain when you visit Rome, because it is beautiful and definitely something you need to see. Just make sure you visit the fountain as an informed tourist!Bernini was most influential and revolutionary Baroque sculptor in the world, after all the Rome is the most important city in the world for Baroque art! Galilei doesn't even make a blip on the Art Historian's radar. 

2. The Spanish Steps

The Spanish Steps are another one of the most popular gathering places in all of Rome. It was not until my last onsite class for Baroque Art in Rome this semester that I finally understood the (un)importance of this tourist sight. First, the name "The Spanish Steps" has nothing to do with the actual monument, it is simply the title that everyday people informally gave to the steps because of their proximity to the Spanish Embassy. A more appropriate name for the steps would be "The French Steps" because they were actually paid for by a French Diplomat. 


At the top of the steps, the building with the two tall towers behind the obelisk, is a French church. The French diplomat requested the large sum of money be used by the church to build something lavish in the empty space below the church to make it look more important. The architect of the steps is unknown and the project was not completed until around 1730. Today the Spanish Steps are a large gathering place for tourists, street performers, artists, and pick-pocketers. Fontana della Barcaccia, located at the base of the steps, was a collaboration between Lorenzo Bernini and his more famous son, Gian Lorenzo Bernini.

3. The Wedding Cake

The Wedding Cake a.k.a. Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II is abhorred by Romans alike. The monument was completed in 1931, as a celebration of the unification of Italy's city-states under the late king. The reason it is so hated is because is built entirely out of an awful, harsh white marble, not the Travertine marble the rest of the Eternal City is built out of. Mussolini, the Fascist dictator and Hitler ally, oversaw the construction of the Wedding Cake, making the monument serve more as an ever-present reminder of a dark moment in Italy's history, rather than a symbol of national pride. 

The facts and descriptions of the monuments listed above are representative of carefully recorded thoughts and opinions of Roman's I have spoken with and the historical facts were diligently researched. 

xx, E.

Packing Tips for Study Abroad

When I was packing my two large duffle bags up to travel to Rome in August, I thought I had a pretty good idea of what to bring and what to leave behind. My program didn't give us a list of things to pack beyond the basics- medications, adapters, laptop, warm clothes, a couple pairs of shoes, and our passports. Packing for the three months is overwhelming. I remember wishing I had someone to answer all my questions and give me some tips. The most important thing to remember when you are packing for study abroad is that you can buy almost everything after you get to your destination, with the exception of a few very important items. 


What to bring:
-Clothes. Don't bring anything too nice. All of the clothing I brought could either be washed by hand or needed to go to the dry cleaner around the corner from the residence (she only speaks Italian eeeek!) The washing machines were a huge let down and destroyed a lot of my clothes, so I resorted to hand-washing everything in my bathtub or bidet. It is next to impossible to keep your whites white unless you put the time in to bleaching them. The Italians (and all Europeans) dress up  A LOT. If you go outside with wet hair, in sweatpants, a tee shirt, workout clothes, or sneakers that aren't trendy (Converse, those fancy Nike Dunks...) you will get more than a few disgusted stares. 


-Walking shoes. You'll be walking everywhere, in the city you're studying in and in each new place you visit. Your new and tightened student budget probably won't permit you to 'cab it' out every night. Exploring European cities by foot is also the best way to take it all in. I went through several pairs of flats in the past 3 months. Its a good idea to bring a pair or two of comfortable flat boots and at least one pair of flats. I basically lived in my motorcycle boots and knee high flat black leather boots. Flip flops are a no-go unless you are wearing them in the shower at your hostel or at the beach. Bring dressier sandals for warmer weather. DO NOT FORGET BLISTER BANDAIDS!!!! They don't exist in Europe.


-Layers. Bring clothes that can be layered. The weather can change drastically from day to day and space is limited. Better to be warm than cold. You will wear tights and leggings all the time. Tights and shorts are a big trend in Europe and the combo comes in handy when all of your clothes are dirty. Bring dresses and tops that you will be able to wear throughout your entire time abroad mixing and matching. Its best to bring lots of skinny jeans, jeggings, and leggings that don't take up much space and can easily be tucked into boots, instantly dressing up any outfit. 


-Coats. Bring a few coats of different warmths so that you have options when you travel. While it might only get to the mid-40s in Rome, if you are planning on visiting friends in Paris or Prague where it snows a lot, you will want a warmer coat. Also, check the average temperatures for the months you will be the city and pack accordingly. 


-Backpack. I forgot to bring one of these (not sure what I was thinking). I had to buy a 120 euro backpack from the North Face store in Rome my first week... Definitely don't make this mistake. You will use this all the time, during your weekend and overnight trips. Especially if you are flying on budget airlines like Ryanair where you are limited to only 1 carryon.


-Hygiene products. If you are particularly brand loyal when it comes to certain products, I would suggest that you bring a large enough supply to last until your parents visit and can bring you more because they have completely different products in Europe, brand availability depends on the country you're in. For example, in Italy, they do not sell Neutrogena anywhere, but you can find it all over France. You also might want to bring some over-the-counter medications from the US such as Advil, Zyrtech-D, or Tums.


-Makeup. Again, much more expensive in Europe mostly because they include the 14% VAT in all the prices already. Don't worry, you will be able to find brands like Chanel, Lancome, Clinique if there is an emergency (try la Rinascente or Sephora in Rome), but its best to bring enough makeup from home where your parents can pay for it and it won't deduct from your abroad budget.


-School supplies. In Rome one pen costs anywhere from 1.50 euro to 4 euro. They don't sell cheap pens in large packs for 99 cents in Europe, so I'd recommend bringing a few from home. Highlighters are even more expensive and notecards don't exist. If you are planning on passing your foreign language classes, you might want to pack some of these babies.


-Plastic bags and tupperware. They don't exist in Italy, I can't speak for other countries. You'll want them for travelling and for packing snacks for school. 


-Protein bars. If you eat them, they are much more difficult to find in Europe. If you do find them, they will probably be expensive and funny tasting.


Things to leave behind...
-Workout clothes. Pack an outfit or two, just incase you go hiking or something, but you're not studying abroad to get in good shape or maintain your physique. You're studying abroad to experience other cultures, try new food in each city you visit, and of course, sample the local wine, limeonciello, beer, and vodka. You'll be so busy travelling, hanging out with friends, and doing school work, that working out like you do in the US is simply unrealistic.


-Heels. If you don't already live in them, you can definitely survive without them, especially in Rome where walking on cobblestones is quite challenging (even in flats!). If you insist upon bringing heels, it is best to bring wedges. Limit yourself to one pair.
I hope this helps! 
xx, E

Current Obsession: The Earhart

The Earhart by J Brand. Dress these up with heels and a nice top and coat. Perrrfect for those nights where you want to be comfy and chic.

xx, E

Get them here!

Current Obsession: Jeffrey Campbell Lita

Jeffrey Campbell Lita, $159

Just when I don't think their shoes can get any better, the design team at Jeffrey Campbell releases another mouth-watering, reasonably priced shoe. This time it is the Lita. With a sexy 5 inch heel, these lace-up booties will be a go to staple in my wardrobe this winter and spring. Too bad they are already sold out... everywhere. Get on the wait list here!

xx, E

"To An Athlete Dying Young"

A.E. Housman 1896

The time you won your town the race
We chaired you through the market-place;
Man and boy stood cheering by,
And home we brought you shoulder-high.

Today, the road all runners come,
Shoulder-high we bring you home,
And set you at your threshold down,
Townsman of a stiller town.

Smart lad, to slip betimes away
From fields where glory does not stay,
And early though the laurel grows
It withers quicker than the rose.

Eyes the shady night has shut
Cannot see the record cut,
And silence sounds no worse than cheers
After earth has stopped the ears:

Now you will not swell the rout
Of lads that wore their honours out,
Runners whom renown outran
And the name died before the man.

So set, before its echoes fade,
The fleet foot on the sill of shade,
And hold to the low lintel up
The still-defended challenge-cup.

And round that early-laurelled head
Will flock to gaze the strengthless dead,
And find unwithered on its curls
The garland briefer than a girl's.

___________

I remember the first time I ever read this poem. By the time I got to the end, I wasn't sure whether to cry or smile. Housman's words strike me, would you rather die a young legend, remembered forever or wrinkly and alone, only to be forgotten forever? There is some nobility to dying young; soldiers at war, record setting athletes, but the majority of young deaths come from much more tragic circumstances. We all would prefer to live long and healthy lives, than have the plug pulled early. The purpose of life is to have meaningful relationships and experiences with people whom you love. Every tiny interaction you make each day with another human being effects other people, human existence- our cohabitation on earth- is entirely dependent on one another, especially in this day and age. Housman's poem doesn't glorify the sudden, heroic death; instead, it reminds us of humanity's impermanence, urging us to stop wasting time and start living life. Life can change instantly, carpe diem.

xx, E

And It Comes to an End...

They say all good things must come to an end. I just finished my last final of the semester at my study abroad program in Rome and I have mixed feelings. On one hand, I am ecstatic to be done with school. I was slammed with work the past three weeks; I guess we had to make up for the whole lot of nothing we'd been doing since we got here in order to get credit for the classes back home, but getting hit with a mountain of work when you are used to going on vacation every one of your four (or self-proclaimed five) day weekends is nothing short of marathon. Trying to smush an entire semester's worth of information into your brain two days before the final, hah! Its so impossible, its actually comical. I can't wait to go home and see my family and dogs, sleep in my own giant bed, and upgrade from a bathtub to a washing machine, but I will miss Rome. 


After living in Rome for a fast four months, I still can't say I've even come close to seeing half of the art and culture the city has to offer. There are so many museums, so many paintings, frescos, sculptures, monuments, churches, buildings, and ancient ruins in Rome- and so many more being cleaned and rediscovered or dug up every day, that it just may be impossible. Its like what they say about New York, there are so many restaurants that even if you ate at a new one everyday for your life, you couldn't eat at them all!


I was lucky enough to be able to take Baroque Art in Rome, High Renaissance in Rome, Italian, and International Trade this semester. My Baroque and High Renaissance classes each met on site once a week for three hours where we would visit different museums, palazzos, piazzas, and churches all over Rome. It was an incredible opportunity to learn about some of the most influential pieces in the history of Western art. Michelangelo's Sistine Ceiling, Bernini's Ecstasy of St. Teresa, the Belvedere Torso, Raphael's Transfiguration, the Colosseum, and St. Peter's Basilica just to name a few.


Today is the feast of the Immaculate Conception and everything is closed in Italy. This afternoon the Pope is making a pilgrimage to Piazza Mignanelli (the piazza to the right of the Spanish Steps) to say a prayer and leave a floral wreath infront of the Madonna statue in the square. I am going to try and make it to see this since I haven't seen the pope yet since I've been in Rome. Traditionally, the feast of the Immaculate Conception marks the beginning of the Christmas season in Italy, which only means one thing... I've got lots of shopping to do tomorrow when all the stores open back up!
xx, E

A Golden Frock

'Nicole Dress' by Winter Kate
buy it here

I am obsessed with Nicole Richie's clothing line, Winter Kate. Since the line's debut this spring, each new collection just keeps getting better than the last. Richie's collection reflects her own bohemian, seventies, girly-chic style. Its the perfect vintage meets classic line. This little golden dress is definitely a show stopper with a high hemline, billowy sleeves, and the open back. Definitely not something you can wear everyday. Named after the designer herself, its perfect for a night where you want to be the center of attention because you'll definitely catch a few lookers if you're wearing this. 

xx, E

Bernini's Elephant

Bernini's Elephant Carrying an Obelisk is one of the most curious monuments in Rome, despite it's small size. The Egyptian obelisk was found in the garden of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva (behind the monument) during the reign of Pope Alexander VII. Fascinated by the obscure inscriptions, Alexander VII hired Athanasius Kircher, a famous Egyptologist and Jesuit scholar, to interpret the symbols. Kircher found that the inscriptions referenced sunlight, and Bernini was hired to erect a monument in front of the church, incorporating the obelisk. It was completed in 1667. This was the last work Bernini and his assistants undertook for Alexander VII.

The small Egyptian obelisk rests on the back of a nearly life size baby elephant who stands still on a tall, narrow pedestal. The elephant's trunk reaches back to touch the elaborate saddle that carries the obelisk. In 1630, the first elephant in 100 years visited Rome. Bernini was able to conduct a careful study of the creature. It is because of this experience that Bernini was able to sculpt such a realistic elephant. Elephants were extremely rare in the West during the Seventeenth century, most people only knew of the animals through stories. On top of the obelisk are the symbols from the Chigi family crest, the Tuscan hills and the Chigi star, topped with by the Cross of Jesus Christ. The tapestry draped on the elephant's back also bares Alexander VII's crest.

Alexander VII considered the monument a glorification of his reign. The elephant is a traditional symbol of wisdom and strength, while sunlight symbolizes divine enlightenment. The elephant (wisdom and strength) carries sunlight (divine enlightenment) on his back as a gift to the Pope. Alexander VII believed that the re-discovery of the obelisk during his reign was a symbol of his divine enlightenment. This monument is filled with contrast. There is a contrast between old and new; the ancient Egyptian obelisk and the rare, oriental elephant. There was a fascination with elephants during the Baroque because they were a new discovery that came from the East. There is also a clash between the Pagan and the Christian. A pagan obelisk is topped by Pope Alexander VII's crest and a cross; further the entire monument consisting primarily of an obelisk and an elephant, both non-Roman and non-Christian symbols, is located in the piazza of a church. 

Bernini conjures up incompatible contrasts to make a fluid statement: as a whole, the Elephant Obelisk Monument is a symbol of Pope Alexander VII's wisdom, strength, and divine enlightenment. It is a propaganda piece, commissioned by the Pope himself. It glorifies Alexander VII and implies his triumph over paganism. Obelisks in Rome typically serve as a link between earth and heaven, creating a powerful witness of spirituality. Together, the symbols in Bernini's Elephant Obelisk communicate the strength and enlightenment of the Pope. By using an elephant in this version of an equestrian monument, Bernini makes a radical rejection of our customary idea of triumph up until this time. The docile, subjugated, noble giant serves as a pictorial reminder of humanity's highest virtues. 

xx, E